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Soumen Bhowmick
Soumen Bhowmick founded Pollen Dots in 2024 to plan journeys across India and Bhutan. He works in the Commercial Department of Indian Railways, where he has been since 2000. From 2016 to 2020 he was Head of Business Development and Partnerships at ScoutMyTrip, a community-driven road trip planning platform. There he built a nationwide network of local Scouts who helped travellers on the road, and grew the Road Trippers Club to 16 Indian cities. As a core member of Devil On Wheels, he helped travellers plan Himalayan trips and started Spreading Smiles. He has driven solo from Arunachal to Goa and from Himachal to Karnataka, and has run his own caravan for more than ten years. His photographs have won national and international salon awards, and his writing has appeared in Outlook Traveller.
The places to visit in Assam divide into four groups rather than a list, and knowing which group you are in decides the season. Wildlife parks run October to late May and shut for the rain, while river islands depend on a ferry that moves with the water level. Pick the group first, because a trip built around parks and a trip built around the river want different months.
Only one of these places cannot be reached by road, which is the single biggest constraint on an Assam itinerary. The general guide to preparing for travelling in India covers the country-wide version of season and access.
Nine, grouped by what they are.
Four parks, all on the Brahmaputra floodplain, all shut for the monsoon. Kaziranga is the one most trips are built around and the one with the scheduling trap in it.
Majuli is the one place in Assam reached only by boat, from Nimati Ghat near Jorhat, and the crossing is the part of a plan most likely to move.
Sivasagar was the Ahom capital and it is the one group of places on this list that stays open in every month.
Guwahati is where most trips start and it is worth a day rather than a week. Kamakhya sits on Nilachal hill inside the city and is the busiest temple in the Northeast.
Jorhat and Dibrugarh are the two working centres of the tea belt, and both are useful as bases rather than as destinations.
Our fourteen-day journey through the Northeast runs Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and Meghalaya and takes in Kaziranga and Orang. If the places have to fit a fixed set of dates, customised tours is where that gets settled.
Kaziranga, for rhino and for the density of everything else on the floodplain. Manas is the better choice for a quieter trip and different terrain, and Pobitora is the one to use if you only have a half day out of Guwahati.
By ferry from Nimati Ghat, near Jorhat. There is no road onto the island, so the crossing is the only way in, and its timings move with the river level and the season. Allow part of a day at each end.
The Ahom capital. Rang Ghar, Talatal Ghar and Kareng Ghar survive, along with three large built tanks. It is the one group of sites in Assam that stays open in every month, including the monsoon.
Yes, and the timing matters more than at most temples. It is open all year except during Ambubachi Mela in June, when the doors close for four days. That is also when the largest crowd of the year arrives, so a June visit needs checking against the dates.