Places to Visit in Bhutan: Dzongs, Valleys and the Tiger's Nest

One road running west to east holds the places to visit in Bhutan, through Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Phobjikha and Bumthang. Bhutan closed its peaks above 6,000 metres in 1994 and banned all mountaineering in 2003, so Gangkhar Puensum at 7,570 metres is still the highest unclimbed mountain on earth. Dzongs, valleys and passes are what the country offers instead.

Everything below is reached by road from Paro or Thimphu. The India leg is in the guide to preparing for travelling in India, which stops at the border.

Places to visit in Bhutan

Grouped by how far east they sit, because that is the only axis here.

Paro. The airport, the Tiger's Nest, Rinpung Dzong, the Chele La pass.
Thimphu. The capital, the Tashichho Dzong, the Buddha Dordenma, the weekend market.
Punakha. Over the Dochula pass, and the river valley below it.
Phobjikha. The glacial valley, Gangtey monastery, and the cranes in winter.
Bumthang and the east. Four valleys, the oldest temples, and almost no visitors.

Paro and the Tiger's Nest

Paro holds the only international airport and the one building everybody arrives wanting to see.

Paro Taktsang. The Tiger's Nest, clinging to a cliff above the valley, reached by a morning's climb.
Rinpung Dzong. The large fortress above the river, and the Paro Tshechu is held in its courtyard.
Kyichu Lhakhang. One of the oldest temples in the country.
Chele La. The highest motorable pass in Bhutan, an hour or so up from the valley.
The arrival itself. The approach into Paro is flown by a small number of certified pilots.

Thimphu and the Dochula pass

The capital is small, walkable and the only city in the country, and the pass east of it is where the Himalaya appears.

Tashichho Dzong. Government and monastic body in one building, open to visitors in the evenings.
Buddha Dordenma. The large seated figure above the city.
The weekend market. Produce, cloth and the best single look at everyday Bhutan.
Dochula. 108 chortens on a ridge, and on a clear morning the eastern Himalaya behind them.
The Motithang takin preserve. The national animal, and worth the fifteen minutes.

Punakha and the valley below the pass

Lower, warmer and greener than Thimphu, and the old capital.

Punakha Dzong. At the meeting of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu rivers, and the finest building in the country.
The suspension bridge. Long, strung across the Pho Chhu, and not for anyone uneasy with heights.
Chimi Lhakhang. Reached on a short walk through rice fields.
Rafting. The Mo Chhu runs gently enough for a first time.
Why it feels different. It sits around 1,200 metres, so it is warm when Thimphu is cold.

Phobjikha, the valley that buried its power lines

A glacial valley with no trees on its floor, and the winter home of a bird the valley has rebuilt itself around.

The cranes. They arrive in late October and leave in mid-February, and about 500 winter in Bhutan.
The power lines. Phobjikha buried its electricity cables underground so the cranes would not strike them, and did the work in summer while the birds were away.
Gangtey Goenpa. The monastery above the valley, and the Crane Festival is held there on 11 November.
The nature trail. A gentle walk down from the monastery across the valley floor.
Out of season. Green, quiet and empty between March and September.

Bumthang and the east

Four valleys, the oldest religious sites in Bhutan, and the part of the country most itineraries never reach.

Jakar. The main town and the base for the valleys around it.
Kurjey and Jambay Lhakhang. Among the oldest temples in the country.
The yathra weaving villages, where the wool strips are made.
Getting there. A long drive east from Phobjikha, or a short internal flight to Bathpalathang.
What it costs. Days, and the fee runs on all of them, which is why it is cut first.

A country that stopped climbing its own mountains is making a statement about what it sells, and the places above are what it offers instead. Whether a protected place actually benefits the people in it is the longer question. Our nine day journey through the valleys of Bhutan runs the western valleys at a pace that reaches Phobjikha, and customised tours is where the eastern valleys get added or left out.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does Paro Taktsang take to climb?

Most of a morning up and back, on a dirt path that climbs steadily with a stepped section near the end. A cafeteria sits roughly halfway. The altitude makes it harder than the distance suggests, so start early and carry water.

When can you see the black-necked cranes in Bhutan?

They arrive in Phobjikha in late October and leave in mid-February, and about 500 winter in the country. The Crane Festival is held at Gangtey monastery on 11 November. Outside that window the valley is green and quiet with no cranes in it at all.

Can you climb mountains in Bhutan?

No. Peaks above 6,000 metres were closed in 1994 and all mountaineering was prohibited in 2003. Gangkhar Puensum, at 7,570 metres, remains the highest unclimbed mountain in the world as a direct result. Trekking below those heights is permitted and is what the country offers instead.

Is Punakha worth the drive from Thimphu?

Yes, and the pass is half the reason. Dochula carries 108 chortens on a ridge with the eastern Himalaya behind them on a clear morning. Punakha itself sits about 1,200 metres lower than Thimphu, so it is warm and green when the capital is cold, and its dzong is the finest building in Bhutan.

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