Things to Know Before Planning a Trip to Bhutan

Three things decide a trip to Bhutan, the season, the permits and the Sustainable Development Fee. International visitors pay USD 100 a night and Indian nationals INR 1,200, a discounted rate that is locked only until 31 August 2027. Settle those three, and the ngultrum you carry, the dzong dress code and the number of days you need all follow from them.

Most routes in start on the Indian side, through Bagdogra and the Phuentsholing border or a connecting flight to Paro. For that leg the guide to preparing for travelling in India applies, though nothing in it covers Bhutan itself.

When to plan a trip to Bhutan

March to May and September to November. Spring brings rhododendron on the passes and autumn brings the clearest mountain views of the year.

March to May. Spring. Clear mornings, flowering passes, and the Paro Tshechu.
June to August. Monsoon. Green, wet, cheaper, and the high passes often sitting in cloud.
September to November. The clearest skies of the year, and the Thimphu Tshechu.
December to February. Cold and bright, with thin crowds and some high roads closed.
One month, if you want one. October.

The fee runs every night whatever the season, so a monsoon trip saves on rooms and flights and not on the fee itself.

Permits for Bhutan, and who needs what

Indian citizens need no visa and everybody else does. What Indians do need is an entry permit, and the identity document it is issued against is the part that catches people out.

Indian passport holders. No visa. An entry permit, issued against a passport with six months validity or a Voter Identity Card from the Election Commission.
Not accepted. Aadhaar, PAN and a driving licence. None of the three will get you across.
Everyone else. A visa, applied for through a licensed operator at the same time as the fee.
Where to apply. Online through the Department of Immigration portal, roughly four to five working days, or at the port of entry on arrival.
By land. Phuentsholing, opposite Jaigaon in West Bengal, is the main crossing. Gelephu and Samdrup Jongkhar are the other two.
Beyond Thimphu and Paro. A route permit, free, issued at the Thimphu immigration office on a weekday and taking an hour or two.

The route permit is the one most itineraries forget. An entry permit alone covers Thimphu and Paro and nothing else, so Punakha, Phobjikha and Bumthang all sit behind a second piece of paper that can only be collected on a working day.

The Sustainable Development Fee, and what it pays for

A nightly charge rather than a package price, and the current rate is temporary.

The rate. USD 100 a night for most foreign nationals, INR 1,200 for Indian nationals.
Children. Half rate from six to twelve, nothing below six.
The date to know. The USD 100 figure is a fifty percent concession, and it runs to 31 August 2027.
What it is not. It buys nothing. Rooms, food, transport and guide are all charged on top.
What it funds. Free healthcare and education, conservation work, and the costs that visitor numbers alone do not cover.

Bhutan's nightly fee as a model of how a country prices its own tourism is a separate argument and a longer one.

Money, cards and the ngultrum

The ngultrum sits at parity with the Indian rupee and the two circulate side by side, which makes Bhutan the easiest border in the region for an Indian traveller to cross with cash.

One ngultrum equals one rupee and both are accepted.
Except the 2,000 rupee note, which India withdrew and Bhutanese shops stopped taking.
Cards work in Thimphu and Paro and thin out quickly outside them.
ATMs are a main-town facility. Carry cash for the valleys.
Foreign exchange at Paro airport and at the banks in Thimphu.

Dzong etiquette and dress for visitors

A dzong is a working administrative building and a monastery at once, so the dress code is enforced rather than suggested.

Long trousers and covered shoulders inside any dzong or temple. No shorts.
Hats off, and shoes off at a temple threshold.
Walk clockwise around a chorten, a prayer wheel and a monastery courtyard.
Photography is usually fine outside and usually not inside a temple. Ask first.
Point with an open hand rather than a finger.
Bhutanese staff wear the gho and the kira to work. Visitors are not expected to.

Everyday etiquette for travellers covers the version that applies anywhere.

How long you need in Bhutan

Five days for Paro and Thimphu, seven to add Punakha, ten to reach Phobjikha and Bumthang.

Five days. Paro, Thimphu and the Tiger's Nest.
Seven days. Adds Punakha, over the Dochula pass.
Nine or ten days. Adds Phobjikha, and the first of the Bumthang valleys.
Two weeks. Bumthang properly, and the east.
Under four days. Paro and Thimphu only, and the fee runs every night regardless.

The arithmetic here is unlike anywhere else, because a slow day costs the same as a full one. That changes how a route is built rather than how fast it is driven, and our nine day journey through the valleys of Bhutan is shaped around it. Customised tours is where the dates and the permits get settled together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do Indians need a visa for Bhutan?

No. Indian citizens need no visa, only an entry permit, and it is issued against a passport with six months validity or a Voter Identity Card from the Election Commission. Aadhaar, PAN and a driving licence are not accepted. The permit can be applied for online in advance or obtained at the port of entry.

How much is the daily fee for Bhutan?

USD 100 a night for most foreign nationals and INR 1,200 for Indian nationals, with half rate for children aged six to twelve and nothing below six. The USD 100 figure is a fifty percent concession running to 31 August 2027. It is charged per night of stay and covers none of your room, food or transport.

Can you use Indian rupees in Bhutan?

Yes. The ngultrum is at parity with the rupee and both circulate. The exception is the 2,000 rupee note, which India withdrew and Bhutanese shops no longer take. Carry smaller denominations, because change for large notes is hard to find outside Thimphu and Paro.

What is the best time to visit Bhutan?

March to May and September to November. Autumn gives the clearest mountain views of the year, spring gives flowering passes and the Paro Tshechu. The monsoon from June to August is green and wet with the passes often in cloud, and winter is cold, bright and quiet.

Do you need a permit to travel beyond Thimphu and Paro?

Yes. The entry permit covers Thimphu and Paro only, and anywhere further needs a route permit. It is free, issued at the Thimphu immigration office, and takes an hour or two on a working day. Punakha, Phobjikha and Bumthang all sit behind it, so the office hours shape the itinerary.

How many days are enough for Bhutan?

Five days covers Paro, Thimphu and the Tiger's Nest at a reasonable pace. Seven adds Punakha over the Dochula pass, and nine or ten reach Phobjikha and the first Bumthang valley. Because the fee is charged nightly rather than by package, a short trip is not proportionally cheaper to run.

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