What to Buy in Meghalaya: Turmeric, Cane and Khasi Weaves

Meghalaya's best things are agricultural rather than decorative, so what to buy in Meghalaya is a shorter list than in most of India. Lakadong turmeric from the Jaintia hills carries roughly seven percent curcumin and holds a Geographical Indication granted on 30 March 2024 to a cooperative in Jowai. Buy food and fibre close to where it was grown or woven, and leave the souvenir stalls alone.

Almost nothing here is made for visitors, which is why the weekly markets matter more than the shops. Customs and baggage limits, which the guide to preparing for travelling in India covers, apply to anything you carry home.

What to buy in Meghalaya

Grouped by what it is, and whether it travels.

Spice. Lakadong turmeric first, then bay leaf and black sesame.
Cloth. Khasi jainsem and dhara, Garo dakmanda, eri silk.
Cane and bamboo. Baskets, stools, mats, fish traps.
Food with a season. Khasi mandarins from about November, forest honey year round.
Food that does not travel. Tungrymbai and the other fermented preparations. Eat them there.

Lakadong turmeric and what makes it different

Grown in the Lakadong area of the Jaintia hills and nowhere else under that name, since the Geographical Indication of 30 March 2024 restricts it.

The number that matters. Around seven percent curcumin, which is why it is sold by weight at a price ordinary turmeric does not command.
It is grown without fertiliser, by roughly fourteen thousand farmers across more than forty villages.
Buy it as whole dried fingers rather than powder where you can. Powder is where adulteration happens.
The GI is held by the Lakadong Turmeric Cooperative Union in Jowai, so a cooperative outlet is the surest source.
Colour is deep orange rather than yellow. That is the quickest field check.

Khasi and Garo textiles worth carrying home

Three peoples with three traditions, and the pieces are everyday garments rather than display items.

The Khasi jainsem, worn as two lengths of cloth pinned at the shoulders.
The dhara, the lighter draped version.
Eri silk, sometimes called peace silk, because the moth leaves the cocoon before it is processed.
Garo dakmanda, woven in the west and quite different in pattern from Khasi cloth.
Shillong's markets carry all of it. Prices and quality both improve closer to the weaving villages.

Cane and bamboo from the Meghalaya hills

Functional rather than ornamental, and the reason to buy it is that it is still in daily use here.

Baskets in every size, including the conical khoh carried on the back with a headstrap.
Stools, mats and winnowing trays.
Fish traps and conical rain shields, the latter a genuinely local design.
Buy at a village or a weekly market rather than a city shop where you can.
Check the weave tightness and the finish at the rim. That is where a rushed piece shows.
A khoh in daily use is worth more than a decorative one and usually costs less.

Where to shop in Meghalaya

The weekly markets are the real answer and they run on an eight day cycle in many Khasi villages rather than a seven day week.

Iewduh in Shillong, one of the largest markets in the Northeast and the widest single selection.
Police Bazar in Shillong for convenience rather than for prices.
Village haats, which rotate. Ask locally for the day rather than assuming a weekend.
Cooperative and government emporia for turmeric and silk, where provenance matters more than price.
Jowai for anything from the Jaintia hills, turmeric first.
Bay leaf and honey are easiest at roadside stalls on the Shillong to Sohra road.

What to avoid buying in Meghalaya

Short list, and two of these are legal rather than aesthetic.

Anything made from wildlife. Shell, bone, feather, skin. Illegal and frequently offered.
Orchids and plant material. Export and interstate movement are restricted.
Turmeric powder of unnamed origin sold as Lakadong. The GI exists because the name was being used loosely.
Mass produced shawls in city shops, which are usually woven elsewhere.

Most of what is worth buying here is still made by the household that sells it. That is the reason a village market price and a city counter price differ so widely. Our fourteen day journey through the Northeast runs Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and Meghalaya and moves through several of these market towns, and customised tours is where market days get built into dates.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Lakadong turmeric and why is it expensive?

It is a turmeric variety grown in the Lakadong area of Meghalaya's Jaintia hills, carrying around seven percent curcumin, which is high. It received a Geographical Indication on 30 March 2024, held by a cooperative union in Jowai. The price reflects the curcumin content and the fact that it is grown without fertiliser on a limited area.

What is the famous market in Shillong?

Iewduh, also called Bara Bazar, is the largest and the one worth the time. Police Bazar is more convenient and more expensive. Outside Shillong, the village markets rotate on an eight day cycle in many Khasi areas, so ask locally rather than assuming a weekend.

Is eri silk from Meghalaya different from other silks?

Eri is processed after the moth has left the cocoon, which is why it is sometimes called peace silk. It is warmer and more matte than mulberry silk and it is woven across the Northeast rather than in Meghalaya alone. Ask who wove a piece and where.

Can I take orchids or plants home from Meghalaya?

No. Orchids and other plant material are protected and both export and interstate movement are restricted. The same applies to anything made from wildlife, including shell, bone and feather, which is offered openly in some places and is illegal to buy.

What food from Meghalaya travels well?

Lakadong turmeric, local honey, dried bay leaf and black sesame all travel. Khasi mandarins travel badly and are a short season from about November. Fermented preparations such as tungrymbai are worth eating there and not worth packing.

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