Things to Know Before Planning a Trip to North Bengal

A trip to North Bengal covers a hill station at 2,000 metres and a floodplain forest a few hours below it. The road to Sandakphu is itself the India Nepal border, and some of the lodges on the Singalila trek stand on the Nepal side. Plan around the months when the mountain is visible, the permits Singalila asks for, and the weeks when the parks and the forests close.

Nothing is checked at the state line here and the paperwork is thin. The dates need checking. The Dooars forests and the one national park in the hills each shut for part of the year, and not on the same dates. The guide to preparing for travelling in India covers the general case, and this one covers the closures and the border.

The best months for a trip to North Bengal

October to early December is the clearest window, with March to May a close second. The monsoon between them is heavy in both the hills and the plains.

• October to early December. Clear air after the rain, and the best views of the Kangchenjunga range.
• March to May. Warm in the hills, hot in the Dooars, and good for the forests before they close.
• June to September. The monsoon. Landslides on the hill roads and standing water in the plains.
• December to February. Cold and often clear in the hills. Fog in the plains on winter mornings.
• One month, if you want one. November.
• The two halves need different months. The hills are at their best in autumn. The Dooars forests are open from mid September and are best from November to March.

Which permits North Bengal asks for

Nothing for entering the region, for Indian citizens or foreign nationals. One national park charges an entry permit and requires a guide for trekking.

• Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Kurseong, Mirik, Siliguri, the Dooars, Cooch Behar. No permit.
• Singalila National Park. An entry permit from the forest range office at Manebhanjang, which is not transferable.
• What it costs. Rs 120 per person for Indian nationals, Rs 500 for other nationalities, and Rs 400 per vehicle.
• Guides. Not required for a jeep safari. Required for trekking through the park, including the Sandakphu route.
• Where to hire one. The Highlander Guides and Porters Welfare Association at Manebhanjang.
• The border. The 52 km motorable road from Manebhanjang to Phalut is the international boundary between India and Nepal. Some lodges on the route, including at Tumling, stand on the Nepal side.
• No passport is involved. The route is used as a trekking road and the crossing is not a formality anyone stops for.

When the parks and the forests close

Two different closure calendars in one region, and neither one is the monsoon dates people assume.

• Singalila National Park. Closed to visitors from 16 June to 15 September.
• Its hours. Open 7 am to 2 pm daily, with driving inside after 2 pm prohibited.
• The Dooars forests. Jaldapara, Gorumara, Chapramari and Buxa shut for the monsoon, usually mid June to mid September, with the dates set each year.
• What that rules out. A monsoon trip that includes any forest or the Singalila ridge.
• What stays open. Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Kurseong, Mirik and the tea gardens, in any month.
• Safari bookings. The Dooars safaris are limited in number per slot and go quickly in the December and January weeks.

How to get to North Bengal by air, rail and road

One airport and one major railhead serve the whole region, and both sit within an hour of each other near Siliguri.

• By air. Bagdogra, which is the gateway for the hills, the Dooars, Sikkim and parts of the Northeast.
• By rail. New Jalpaiguri, the main railhead, with Siliguri Junction and Alipurduar on the same network.
• The narrow gauge line. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway runs from New Jalpaiguri up to Darjeeling, and it is a World Heritage Site rather than a commuter service.
• By road to the hills. Shared jeeps and taxis from Siliguri to Darjeeling, Kalimpong and Mirik.
• By road to the Dooars. East from Siliguri along the national highway through Chalsa, Lataguri and Madarihat.
• Night driving. Avoid it on the hill roads. The plains roads run through forest, where elephants cross.

The altitude range, from the Dooars to Sandakphu

The lowest and the highest points in this region are about three and a half kilometres apart vertically and a day apart by road.

• The Dooars floor. Around 100 metres, which is floodplain.
• Siliguri. Low, hot in summer, and the junction everything passes through.
• Darjeeling. About 2,000 metres, which needs no acclimatisation.
• Ghum. 2,258 metres, the summit of the railway line and India's highest railway station.
• Sandakphu. 3,636 metres, the highest point in West Bengal.
• Altitude. Darjeeling is too low for altitude sickness. The Singalila ridge runs above 3,000 metres and the climb to Sandakphu is normally made over two days.

How long a North Bengal trip needs

Six to eight days covers the hills or the Dooars properly. Covering both takes about ten.

• Three days. Darjeeling, with the railway and the tea gardens.
• Five days. Darjeeling and Kalimpong, with the Teesta valley road between them.
• Four days. The Dooars on its own, with two forests and two safaris.
• Eight days. The hills and the Dooars, with a night in Siliguri between.
• Ten days. The above with Cooch Behar added, or with the Sandakphu trek instead of the Dooars.
• Five days for Sandakphu alone, from Manebhanjang to Phalut and down.

A plan made without the closure dates is the one that comes apart here, because the two halves of the region shut on different calendars and both are decided before you arrive. Our six day cultural journey through Darjeeling and Sikkim runs the tea hills and the monasteries rather than the forests. Customised tours is where the closures, the safaris and the driving days get settled together.

Also Read

1. Destinations in India: Discovering Places Through Culture, Stories and Everyday Life
2. Cultural Places to Visit in India, and What Most People Miss
3. Responsible Travel Destinations in India, and How to Get There

Frequently Asked Questions

Do you need a permit for North Bengal?

Not to enter the region, and not for Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Kurseong, Mirik, Siliguri, the Dooars or Cooch Behar. Singalila National Park charges an entry permit from the forest range office at Manebhanjang, at Rs 120 for Indian nationals and Rs 500 for others, plus Rs 400 per vehicle.

Do you need a guide for the Sandakphu trek?

Yes. A guide is required for trekking through Singalila National Park, including the Sandakphu route, and is not required for a jeep safari. The Highlander Guides and Porters Welfare Association at Manebhanjang provides registered guides and porters.

When is Singalila National Park closed?

From 16 June to 15 September each year. When open it runs 7 am to 2 pm daily, and driving inside the park after 2 pm is prohibited. The Dooars forests close for the monsoon on their own dates, usually mid June to mid September.

What is the best time to visit North Bengal?

October to early December for the clearest mountain views, or March to May for warm hill weather. Avoid June to September, when the monsoon brings landslides in the hills and the forests are shut. The Dooars are at their best from November to March.

Which airport should I fly into for North Bengal?

Bagdogra, which serves the hills, the Dooars, Sikkim and parts of the Northeast. New Jalpaiguri is the main railhead, about an hour away, with Siliguri Junction and Alipurduar on the same network. Most road journeys in the region start from Siliguri.

How many days do you need in North Bengal?

Six to eight days covers either the hills or the Dooars properly, and about ten covers both. Three days does Darjeeling. Five adds Kalimpong and the Teesta valley. The Dooars need four on their own, and the Sandakphu trek needs five.